Poietis: at the forefront of alternative testing models

Strong assets for evaluation

The unique method developped by Poietis ensures standardization and reproducibility. It is also possible to personalize the models, depending on the cellular targets or specificities (ethnic, mature, damaged, pigmented). At least, Poietis favors close partnerships with companies, in order to co-develop new models that may concern glands, adipocytes, stem cells, vascularization or hair follicles.

The unquestionable added value of the Poietis platform is its ability to design and manufacture tissue with cellular resolution. This allows very precise control of the manufacturing process and guarantees the reproducibility and reliability of bio-printed products.


Poieskin®, the first human skin 3D-printed model

In 2018, Poietis launches Poieskin®, a human ‘full thickness' skin model entirely produced by 3D bioprinting. It consists of a dermal compartment composed of primary human fibroblasts embedded in a collagen I matrix overlaid by a stratified epidermis derived from primary human keratinocytes. This breakthrough innovation shows how fast the testing sector is growing, thanks to bioprinting and tissue engineering. It will allow better evaluation of cosmetic ingredients and finished products, as an alternative of animal experimentation. This new model is even closer to native ex vivo models and presents strong assets for cosmetic suppliers and manufacturers.


Bring the technology to the clinical step

Companies like Poietis aim to build innovation to both medical and cosmetic sectors. For instance, one may imagine a mobile bio-printer that could be functioning in hospitals and produce on-site the biological material as patches to repair tissues during an operation : in ophthalmology, cardiology, gastroenterology medical fields, it would be a great improvement in terms of patient care.


The cosmetic needs such innovations

The cosmetic industry is often pulled by marketing requirements. Moreover, the product life cycle is quite short. In addition to a nice story telling developed by marketing and communication services, R&D is reconquering the way we sell product, based on more scientific assessments. Attesting ingredient activities through robust models, as close as possible from the real in vivo biological context, plays a key role in developing cosmetic products. These methods brings data and innovation to cosmetic products files.


Industry 3.0 : forecasts

Clearly, such technologies are linked to the main trends of both medical and cosmetic sectors, such as personalized and predictive skincare or treatments. Masks or patches could be personally designed and applied for better activity on the body. Jala Group, a leading cosmetics company in China, recently announced that for the first time in the world, the company has successfully printed the complete skin of Asians, with dermis and epidermis, using the 3D bioprinting technology. It plays a vital role in promoting the development and testing of more advanced and safer cosmetics that meet the skin needs of Asian consumers.

In addition, we see that  augmented reality already displays smart tools to connected beauty, especially for make-up brands. Other technologies will add new functionalities and services to these markets : IOT (internet of things), digitalization, virtual reality… 


Cosmetic : towards international ban of animal testing

Although 80% of countries in the world authorize animal testing and commercialization of products that have bee tested on animals, European Parliament denounces companies testing the products out of Europe, and testing then in Europe on alternative methods before selling them in this zone. Euro-deputies asked recently to the European Commission and companies to present the topic to the United Nations Organization, in order to promote and support an international convention. This evolution of the regulation would have huge influence on the growth of testing market.


You want to meet Poietis team or discover more about skincare testing methods or cosmetic regulation ? Learn more during the Cosmetic 360 fair in Paris, 17-18 October 2018, where you can meet the greatest cosmetic innovators and attend conferences on hot topics of the beauty industry.