Programme 2018 en cours d'élaboration

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16 sessions « Theory Into Practice » (TIPs) présentées par des duos experts/utilisateurs.

2 jours pour aborder les grands enjeux de la profession : strategy & new markets, latest advances in skincare, formulation & technology, sensory impact of ingredients, sourcing & sustainability, packaging, business protection & optimisation.


18 Octobre



Africa: opportunities and challenges for the cosmetic sector

9 : 30


Virginie D'ENFERT - FEBEA     &     Emmanuel CAPIOMONT - L'Oréal

The African continent is probably the next promising growing market for cosmetics. Because of a booming demography, dynamic economic growth and also the strong appetite for cosmetics of the African population, brands are targeting African countries with a carefully chosen strategy.

What are the priority countries to target? What are the assets to develop and the obstacles to overcome when entering the market? What are the main regulatory processes to know?




Environmental pollution and the skin: a new challenge for the cosmetic industry

10 : 30


Giuseppe PERCOCO - BIO-EC Laboratory     &     Maria CORONADO ROBLES - Euromonitor International

The skin is a “real-barrier” which protects our body against the external environment.

Among these external factors particularly aggressive for the cutaneous tissue, air pollution and its impact on skin biology are becoming a field of central interest for the worldwide cosmetic industries. As a consequence, beauty and personal care products with anti-pollution claims are now a global phenomenon with mainstream brands moving quickly to resolve the emerging challenges that pollution brings to the beauty and personal care market.

Firstly this presentation provides a summary of pollution and the evolution of the anti-pollution trend in the cosmetic field with an overview of market evolution of anti-pollution ingredients in different types of products and geographies.

Secondly, the tests developed and proposed by the cosmetic industry in order to back up anti-pollution claims will be also discussed, with a particular focus on a new ex-vivo model coupling the exposure system PolluBox® and human living skin explants.


Think exposome: from skin consequences to botanical solutions

11 : 30


Aïna QUEIROZ - ID bio     &     Prof. Dr. Jean KRUTMANN - IUF Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine

The Exposome encompasses all the different types of exposure that we are faced with from the intrauterine stage to the end of our lives.  This concept, developed to draw attention to the critical need for a more complete assessment of the environmental exposure in epidemiological studies, is now apprehended as part of skin disorders.

ID bio has been giving its attention to this cosmetic issue for several years now and its R&D Department has been investigating to offer effective and natural solutions so as to preserve the skin from certain effects due to the exposome (protein oxidation, inflammation, cutaneous discomfort, etc).

In parallel, the IUF focuses on environmentally-induced aging, adverse immune reactions and neurotoxicity.




Innovative Pearl Pigments made with silicon-based semiconductor technology

12 : 30


Tetsuya TAKAHASHI - MIYOSHI EUROPE      &     Laurent VENTURA - SiLiMiXT

Silicon represent 28% of the earth’s mass. In its crystal form, it is used as silicon wafers for microelectronics applications. Transformed into porous silicon, with pores 100 times smaller than a blood cell, it has given rise to multiple studies for enhanced microelectronics and optoelectronics applications on silicon wafers. Crushed into micrometric porous silicon particles it can be used in pharmaceutical applications.

The EXPERT, SiLiMiXT is a company focused on the production of porous silicon materials for R&D and industrial applications. The USER, Miyoshi is an actor in surface treatment of cosmetic pigments, useful to provide unique features in skin-care and personal care products.

By controlling the porosity in the silicon wafer, we can supply any color that is required and also provide a protection against UV or IR light. We have been using this technology to develop 100% silicon based biocompatible pearl pigments for cosmetics.



Molecular Motor Technology Platform  for cometics

13 : 30


Steven QUI - Nox Bellcow Cosmetics     &     Yue JIACHANG - Institute of Biophysics, Chinese Academy of Sciences / Zhejiang DIEN Biological Technology

We use the high quality of physiological compatibility and safe molecular as a carrier material and insert it with high value cosmetic ingredients and package it into small particle size of nanometers. These particles will carry the active ingredients penetrate the human skin barrier seamlessly to maximize effectiveness.

We specialize in supplying high end cosmetic products and technologies for large cosmetics enterprises in CHINA and meet customer demand for high efficiency and core raw materials that traditionally can not be delivered and absorbed easily.  (E.g. phenethyl resorcinol, resveratrol, curcumin and others).

Raw materials that traditionally have poor solubility or transdermal absorption difficulty are greatly improved after our technical treatment. The results and evaluation data are highly regarded by the customers.




Targeting Seniors:  the “silver” segment in beauty innovation

14 : 30



Dr. Arnaud AUBERT - Emospin     &     Jamie MILLS - GlobalData

With population aging becoming a phenomenon reshaping the global landscape, this demographic represents a key area to explore for the beauty space. Similarly, while the senior segment has been subjected to traditional age stereotypes, they do not necessarily resonate with today’s modern “silver” consumers and indeed those of the future.

This presentation will explore the key consumer attitudes of today’s seniors, their outlook, how they are evolving, and in turn how brands and manufacturers can appeal to them through their innovation strategies.




From chemical structure to skinfeel properties of emollients

15 : 30


Nathalie LOUBAT-BOULEUC - Stéarinerie-Dubois     &     Céline PICARD - University of Le Havre URCOM

Emollients are one of the most important and broad classes of ingredients used in personal care formulations. They refer to a great diversity of substances: esters, silicones, vegetable oils…classified according to their chemical structure. In each group a wide range of sensory, physico-chemical and functional properties are available thanks to diverse structural variations. Two key properties of those ingredients are spreadability and after feel that are governed by the interaction between the different ingredients and skin surface. Presentation will show how recent advances in synthetic surfaces development, physico-chemistry of surfaces and combined sensory/instrumental approaches help us to understand even to predict relationship between chemical structures of emollients and physico-chemical modifications of skin when applying products.

Nowadays, cosmetic industries have to face many challenges: produce highly innovative ingredients and products, in respects with the safety of consumers and their environment in a regulatory framework more and more restricting.

In this context, the physico-chemistry of surfaces is the support for developing new analytical approaches and models (skin surface model, predictive models of sensory properties by instrumental methods, relationships between physico-chemical properties and spreadability…). It may be a tool for ingredients manufacturers, formulators, chemist and experts to:

  • help the development of new molecules or new products ;
  • bring understanding to anticipate replacement of ingredients in industrial products ;
  • evaluate application of products on skin while protecting formulators, experts and chemist by avoiding human direct exposure on skin.


Highlighting the influence of cosmetic powders in emulsions with a sensory analysis tool


16 : 30


in partnership



Dr François BOUTON - Brenntag Holding     &     Dr Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER - Ecole de Biologie Industrielle EBI

Sensory evaluation is a science which aims to describe and understand the interaction between products and human. This field of research led usually to characterize the sensory benefits of a product or an object for the user and finally guaranty their acceptability.  Sense of touch permits to explore the influence of the product on different categories of receptors: pressure, temperature which are organized all around the body. The way of the receptors are activated depends on the physico-chemical aspect of the formulation. The influence of the structure and composition of the formulation, the action of the ingredients on sensory perception is an emerging field of research.

The powders are ingredients increasingly used in cosmetic products. Currently there is limited research assessing the sensory impact of powder on formulations. A collaborative work between EBI and Brenntag Cosmetic lead to create a protocol of sensory evaluation to characterize cosmetic powders and their impact on emulsions. We show that the addition of polymethylsilsesquioxane into an emulsion increases significantly the cushion effect and the smoothness without affecting the slipperiness and the spreadability.




19 Octobre



Opening the doors of innovation with open innovation and intrapreneurship

9 : 30


Ganaël BASCOUL - Crowf Academy     &     Nicolas BRY - Orange

How did competition, digital new entrants (GAFA), internationalization, user centric design, and startup mindset transformed culture of innovation? What kind of open innovation programs set-up to foster collaboration with startups, and cocreation with end-users? How is open innovation now penetrating within the inside, through the Intrapreneurs program? The speakers will go through concrete selected examples observed by Soon Soon Soon in the cosmetics industry worldwide, and explain the initiatives developed at Orange.




The quintessence of ancestral linseed for a sustainable beauty

10 : 30


François-Xavier MAQUART - BASF Beauty Care Solutions France     &     Valérie ANDRE - Université de Reims-Champagne-Ardenne

Glycans of the skin play an important role in skin functions and homeostasis but their synthesis is frequently decreased during ageing. As the traditional uses of flaxseed in wound healing was recently reported, we hypothesized that some specific extracts could contribute to restore normal functions in ageing skin.

Although flax is a multipurpose resource whose by-products are valorized in industry, soluble seed hull polysaccharides are not highly valued due to limited studies to ascertain benefits. Our concentrated linseed oligosaccharide extract characterized by a 20000-30000 g/mol weight average contains two specific oligosaccharidic fractions (5-15kDa and 15-50 kDa) evidencing multifunctional anti-ageing properties. Our works particularly demonstrated that both the extract and the purified fractions increase lumican gene and protein expression as collagen I/III synthesis, consequently enhancing collagen fibers assembly. Moreover, inhibiting hyaluronidase and heparanase, the flaxseed extract provides high protection to proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans and globally promotes skin tissue regeneration and restructuring.



Nagoya Protocol on ABS: Practical implications for the cosmetic and fragrance sector


11 : 30



Suhel AL-JANABI - ABS Capacity Development Initiative      &     María Julia OLIVA - Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT)

About 100 countries around the world, including the European Union and its member states, have ratified the Nagoya Protocol on access and benefit sharing (ABS). These countries are now developing or revising their laws and regulations to implement requirements on biodiversity-based sourcing and innovation. Complying with ABS requirements, particularly as these requirements differ significantly between countries, is proving to be a challenge for companies in the cosmetic and fragrance sector. This session outlines the principles and pillars of ABS, demystifying the Nagoya Protocol requirements and their national implementation. It also explains how ABS becomes relevant to biodiversity-based innovation and value chains and how it may relate to sustainability and CSR policies. It also includes discussion on practical examples from navigating through existing (and non-existing) ABS frameworks and needs further information and support. 




Printed electronic for sensing and packaging: From the Concept to the Integration

12 : 30


Bjorn NORBERG - Rise     &     Vincent NOEL - Université Paris Diderot

The introduction of Printed Electronics and Hybrid-printed-electronics allow the integration of new functionalities in the everyday objects including sensors able to measure, on demand or continuously, several bio/chemical markers and physical parameters.

In the proposed conference, we will introduce, on one hand, the emerging conception of a new type of bioelectronical devices, i.e. the possibility of using field-effect transistors derived from MOSFET technology as biosensors, and on the other hand printed electronics and hybrid printed electronic, their application in the manufacturing of biolectronic devices and how these emerging technologies are envisaged to allow integration of sensing/interactive abilities in packages.

Integration of such devices in the package will provide consumers with a variety of new interactive experiences including the rapid evaluation of certain conditions (such as stress and tiredness, skin hydration level, skin inflammation...) and/or the active and personalised management of products.



PYCLEARTM PROTECTION: higher security of cosmetic products while reducing preservatives.

13 : 30


In partnership


Pascale GAUTHIER - Faculté de Pharmacie de Clermont-Ferrand     &     Aurélie FURIGA - Pylote

For the past decade, regulators have enacted restrictions on widely used preservatives as suspected endocrine disruptors, cancer-causing agents, and skin irritants. Therefore, cosmetic formulators and suppliers worry about protecting their consumers from contamination and innovative alternatives are necessary. 

In this context, PYLOTE has developed a real breakthrough innovation, called PYCLEARTM PROTECTION, based on specific and regulatory compliance patented spherical ceramic microspheres directly integrated to materials by using the existing manufacturing process. The main effects of this proprietary technology are to reduce i) contamination risks into manufacturing equipments (cannula, pipeline, etc), ii) decrease biocharge on empty packaging and iii) protect content and each doses delivered until the consumers.

Antimicrobial activities (ISO 22196) and In-use tests were performed both on standard and “Pylote Added” materials/packaging. Results highlighted that PYCLEARTM PROTECTION is protecting the cosmetic formula from contamination and consumers will receive clean & pure doses upon each application.




Perception and usage of beauty bloggers in France

14 : 30


Garance FERBECK - Harris Interactive     &     Nadia GABRIEL / Emmanuel NUNEZ - Mon Vanity Ideal

Harris Interactive conducted a National Representative quantitative study among 1060 consumers of cosmetic products in France to understand their perception and usage of beauty bloggers. We will analyze the profile, purchase behavior (on/offline), satisfaction and expectations for the main generation of followers not only towards You-tubers but also bloggers and Instagramers. Through Harris Interactive marketing research expertise and Mon Vanity Idéal, a community platform with more than 17 000 members of beauty-addicts and a beauty media, based on bloggers testimonials, we will share our vision of the best practices for brands to optimize their use of these ambassadors in order to better activate awareness, consideration and purchase.




How can trademarks create value in the cosmetic industry?

15 : 30



Sylvie CAZAUX - Cabinet PLASSERAUD     &     Emilie BRENOT - FIST

PLASSERAUD will first present the legal aspects of trademarks registration and answer questions such as when, how, where to fill, how much would it costs, for how long will the brand be protected, what to be aware of, etc.

Then, FIST SA will focus on the consequences of trademarks’ issuing like licensing, valorization, defense and protection especially regarding counterfeiting.

The question of the impossibility to fill for a trademark (congestion of the domain, trade secret, perfumes) will also be presented.

The main aspects that will be developed are a complete overview of the judicial aspects of trademarks’ filling as well as the purpose of filing for a cosmetic company; with specific examples to illustrate the different topics.

What sort of value could a company get from the valorization of its mark? This question aims to answer to different aspects such as publicity and company image, evaluation of a trademark’s value and licensing, distinctiveness of a brand or quality and traceability of the products.

Our presentation of trademarks and its strategy will also be approached with a modern aspect that will take into account the existence of the trademarks in the digital world. The use of trademarks as domain names, hashtags, AdWords or in social networks presents new challenges that companies need to face.



Digitalization to make cosmetics supply chains more sustainable

16 : 30




Anne HIMENO - Chainpoint     &     Rachel KENT - TFT

ChainPoint and TFT, user of ChainPoint’software platform, shall highlight the several issues in cosmetics supply chains and describe how Chainpoint solutions can help these issues. Examples of applications include tracing cosmetic ingredients back to their origin, making sure they are sourced sustainably, or auditing and certifying suppliers and products to give assurance to consumers will be shown. ChainPoint connects all supply chain stakeholders in one platform, which creates supply chain transparency and visibility, helping to improve operational efficiency whilst reducing costs.

Cosmetics and personal care products play an important role in modern day society. They are a part of hygiene, of skin protection and are a key in expressing one’s image and personality.

From the initial sourcing of raw materials through to consumer use and disposal, the cosmetics supply chain has an impact across multiple stakeholders. And it has issues similar to those of other consumer goods industries, such as consumer health, the sustainable sourcing of raw materials, social and ethical issues, risk management and brand protection.

The many challenges in cosmetics and personal care supply chains share one common point: whatever the challenge, collecting data and turning this data into actionable information will always be needed. That’s where ChainPoint’s flexible and configurable platform comes in, connecting supply chains to create visibility and traceability and helps  Cosmetics Sector to face many several challenges all at the same time.